At Beck Kennel's, we pride ourselves in raising happy, healthy Goldendoodle puppies to be an amazing addition to your family.
Below are frequently asked questions. Please contact me directly if you have additional questions.
How do we operate?
Number one priority is LOVE!
I have always had a great love for animals, especially dogs. I have four beautiful daughters that all share my love for animals and are passing this same value on to their own families - I couldn’t be more proud! Dogs are such great companions and expect nothing from us. However, I have learned they do need discipline and for you to be their leader. How do you do this? Lots of training! I am always learning new techniques and have connected with well-known and established trainers in our community. My dogs are part of my family and share our home… that means any puppy is also raised in our home, not a barn or in a kennel. Some people think that’s just crazy… all of the puppy poop and noises, oh my. I admit it is a lot of extra work, I mean a lot, but to me it’s all worth it~ I get to love on a pile of puppies in return!
What food do you recommend?
We use Life's Abundance premuim food & NuVet immune booster.
Good nutrition is as important to the life of your new puppy as is the genetics of our health certified parent dogs. As health conscious dog breeders we have fed or are familiar with nearly every food on the market. Our years of experience led us to use a world- renowned immune builder, NuVet Plus. Any food you choose to feed is incomplete by itself, and supplements or vitamins are necessary. Optimum nutrition is important for the overall wellbeing and longevity of your puppy. Complete nutrition through food and supplements is what gives your puppy the building blocks for bone and joint health, healthy skin and hair, proper growth, and more. We have our own established feeding and supplement protocol that we use, and we highly suggest you follow a similar protocol for the best care of your new puppy.
Both the dog food and the immune booster supplement we feed are only sold through distributors. We have supplied our personal order codes and links to help you order easily. The products can be set up for Auto-Ship, if desired. Auto-Ship is a convenient option for the busy dog owner, since your order is shipped right to your door on the schedule of your choice. We personally appreciate the freedom and convenience of the Auto-Ship option. Fresher food is more nutrient-rich. While leading brands stockpile tons of food for months on end, Life's Abundance is made weekly in small batches. When you buy Life’s Abundance dog food, your pup will benefit from strict inventory controls and product safety considerations that are second-to-none. Put your puppy on the path to wellness. Provide them with a recipe for a long and happy life.
We absolutely love the NuVet Plus supplement and feel it has been a vital addition to our dogs’ health. We can’t say enough about the many benefits NuVet Plus has given our personal dogs and our extended Doodle family. The comprehensive list of ingredients is sure to give your puppy the added nutrition he needs for his growing body.
Your puppy has been weaned to Life’s Abundance Small/Medium Bredd Puppy Food. We also understand that these aren’t the only dining options available for your puppy. There are other dry dog foods available, and we know that you may opt to use one of these choices instead. No matter what food you select, we do recommend that you order a bag of Life's Abundance then select a super premium dog food and a nutritional supplement for the life of your dog, not just when he is a puppy. We also recommend you seek out foods that DO NOT contain corn, soy, peas, or wheat as these are often used as fillers in dog food; They can be culprits of poor health, behavioral issues, and allergies in dogs. Always read the ingredients label! Not every expensive or premium dog food eliminates these ingredients. Here is a link to order Life's Abundance dog or puppy food: p://www.lifesabundance.com/General/ContactUsRep2.aspx?realname=20257716
Your puppy's paws, ears and mouth have been handled daily to ease the nail trimming and grooming process. I recommend you continue to handle your puppy daily.
You will need a comb with the teeth close together as in the above picture. Remove any mats BEFORE you bathe your goldendoodle.
We suggest that your new puppy not be bathed for a least one (1) week after the puppy has been brought home in order not to put more stress them. Try to make bath time a pleasant experience for the puppy - it will be easier for both of you now and into the future. It can be a happy, pleasant and loving time and a little preparation goes along way. You can make it fun by being a little excited, talk to you puppy in happy tones have all that you need readily at hand, i.e. shampoo, conditioner, rinsing cup and lots of towels. Once again the goldendoodle linage is on your side. Both the Poodle and Golden Retriever are water dogs and easily take to water. After the bath we towel dry them, drain the sink, line it with a dry towel and blow dry puppy right there; this way it’s a little easier on your back. Hold the blow dryer 12 to 18 inches away from the pup and move it quickly back and forth while initially using you other hand to fluff the coat followed by brushing while still blow-drying, until the coat is dry to the touch.
Young puppies should not be bathed too often, it can dry out the skin and beautiful coat that the breed has been blessed with. Once every 7-10 days should be sufficient, unless the puppy gets into something.
A good brush to use is a pin brush with metal pins (no ball on the end) set-in flexible rubber and a fine-toothed comb. You MUST brush your dog at least three times a week to keep the coat, clean, free of mats, beautiful and comfortable. You must comb down to the skin reaching the undercoat. If small mats develop and cannot be easily combed out, carefully cut them out because they will continue to get larger. Brushing daily is best. If you wish to avoid the bother of a long coat, it is perfectly permissible to trim the coat. Your local groomer will show you the various styles a Mini Goldendoodle can wear well. If you choose to keep a long coat, you must keep them clean and mat free. Start brushing and combing your puppy as soon as possible and they will soon learn to love the grooming routine and enjoy the one-on-one attention.
Some helpful hints:
Make sure the area is free from drafts - turn down your air conditioner or turn it off to take the chill from your home. Make certain the puppy does not get chilled during the bath. Place a small piece of cotton into each ear to help keep water out.
Mini Goldendoodle are small enough to be bathed in the kitchen sink. Place a rubber mat or a towel on the bottom of the sink to give the puppy a more secure footing. Then fill the sink with warm water to a level they can stand and comfortably keep their head out of the water, place the puppy in the sink and wet them down with warm water using a plastic cup, being very careful not to get any water in the nose or mouth. (You can drown your puppy if not careful.) To wash the face, apply a tearless shampoo from the applicator bottle. You have more control this way in order to keep shampoo out of the eyes, ears, nose, and mouth. Dip a toothbrush in the soap to clean the facial hair and rinse with clean water. Do not use human shampoo. Following the shampooing drain and refill the sink and then the puppy may be rinsed using the cup. After the puppy gets a little older and more relaxed in the bath the faucet sprayer attachment can be used to wet and rinse. It is very important to rinse all the soap off the puppy as any residue can cause dry skin and itching. Puppy should feel “squeaky clean" when all of the soap has been rinsed off.
After the puppy has been thoroughly rinsed, use a conditioner to help de-tangle and condition the hair. Dogs are designed to drain off excess water, simply use your hands to run down the puppy's back, legs, tail and ears and finally gently squeeze the hair around the paws and you will eliminate most of the water. Wrap puppy in a thick towel and gently squeeze the hair to absorb most of the remaining water (do not rub back and forth to dry, this will mat the hair). Blow dry as described below.
Cut the puppy’s nails as needed, being careful not to cut into the pink quick, this is very painful for the dog. (Snip off the white, clear end only- you can see where the pink vein ends).
With a hair dryer set on the warm setting, blow dry the puppy, brushing the hair constantly with a pin brush until the section you are working on feels dry. Be sure to brush only in the direction of the hair growth. For best results, dry the head, ears, and top coat first, then turn puppy on their back or stand them up to dry the legs and stomach area. When puppy is dry, turn the dryer to cool or air setting and blow through the coat to cool it. Now feel for any damp spots. If puppy left with any damp spots in the coat, this area will turn into a mat and be almost impossible to comb out. Never let them dry naturally as they can become chilled. Make sure the dryer is not too hot as you can burn the puppy’s skin (if it feels hot on the back of your hand then it’s too hot). Hair dryers manufactured specifically for animals are the safest to use because of the temperature control.
To avoid fleas I use K9 Advantix II monthly during the "flea" season (March thru October). I found other brands just don't work as well.
Do you own the puppy parents?
We have amazing families to raise our breeding dogs and are committed to the health, training and mental well being for them to be loving companions. We retain the rights to our breeding dogs and each one is cared for and loved as a family pet.
Potty Training 101.
I work very hard to ensure your Goldendoodle puppy is off to a good start with potty training and here are a few tips to ensure continued progress:
Puppies have a schedule that their little bodies follow; they need to go out right after naps or sleep, after exercise, and after eating and drinking. For good measure I also let my puppies out about every 2 hours (unless they are asleep) and take them to the same place each time. Quietly praise them when they potty outside and provide a great treat afterward!
When they are tiny, potty training is all about ME, not them! It is MY responsibility to make sure they get outside, go outside with them to monitor their success (this is crucial), and keep them with me around the house. If I can’t see my puppy…chances are he is getting into trouble somewhere! So, I keep them with me all of the time, either on a leash or with a baby gate or boundary!
The smaller the environment, the more successful we will all be! This is the same reason crate training works. Most puppies don’t want to poop or pee and then be subjected to it, or lay in it. When your puppy is not directly in a crate, keep his environment small.
In the beginning, keep your pup on a leash with you or in a small room or area. I utilize both leashes and baby gate when we are just starting. This way I can monitor them and quickly catch an accident before, or as it is happening and kindly get my puppy outside.
Once you have a handle on your puppy’s potty schedule and he is learning that outside is the place to relieve himself, it is time to teach him how to tell you he has to go out!
I utilize a bell or two on a string. You can get bells almost anywhere. Tie one ribbon of bells on the door knob, so that each time my pup goes out he hears and associates the sound with going outside, and teach him to ring the other string of bells with his nose.
Most pups are inquisitive and if a bell is held about nose level, he is liable to poke, prod or jiggle it in some way. Once he rings the bell, click and treat or praise and treat. This lets him know that ringing the bell is what you want. When he understands that you want him to ring the bell and is doing it when you bring the bells out, you may begin to stop treating him with food for ringing the bell, but continue to praise him and go outside.
Each time he rings the bell praise and let him outside. At first, he will ring the bell often but soon he will realize the bell ringing is his way of telling you he needs to go outside.
The Most Important Puppy Potty Training Tip?
Don’t over react when he has an accident. Never, ever yell or rub his nose in it! This hostility is the reason dogs “sneak” around, go behind couches, and in other rooms to have an accident. You want your puppy to relieve himself in front of you outside, so yelling at him is counterproductive! Your puppy doesn’t understand why you yell sometimes and not others! TEACH him where you want him to potty by being patient, taking him to the same place outside, staying with him and praising him for a job well done! If you approach potty training with this great new attitude I know that you too, will be successful!
What is so special about GANA registered puppies?
I am often asked, what is GANA (Goldendoodle Association of North America) and what does it do for me? As a breeder. I have this wonderful organization made up of several specialist to reach out to. I have found each breeder listed thru GANA has dogs with sound temperaments and their pups are so beautifully proportioned. This group sets the future standards of the goldendoodle breed. When looking for a breeder thru GANA you know that they have invested in the most extensive health testing on your puppies parents and have your best interest in mind. They adhere to an amazing code of ethics. GANA is not a pay for your empty certificate type of orginzation, you need to earn it. I am so very proud to be one of their newest members providing top quality goldendoodles.
Goldendoodle Association of North America (GANA) is the first and only breed club established for the Goldendoodle. A registry database has been created to document lineage. Membership is limited to breeders that provide proof of health clearances achieved on all their breeding dogs and that have agreed to a Code of Ethics regarding their breeding practices and the care of their dogs. To ensure you are working with a breeder that meets these standards, look for the GANA logo on their website.
GANA Mission Statement
The Goldendoodle Association of North America (GANA)'s primary objective is to promote and guide the development of the Goldendoodle to achieve breed standards while maintaining optimum health. GANA guides breeders to the common goal of establishing reliability in coat, type, health, and temperament. It is imperative that the breed's ancestry be documented to allow pedigree and health information to be accessed as the breeds development moves forward. GANA has established a registry that will document this development. Without careful consideration and proper use of the records, the future of the Goldendoodle could be compromised. A Code of Ethics and Accredited Breeder Rules and Requirements have been created to assure the common goal of the betterment of the breed is followed by all member breeders. Protecting the integrity of the Goldendoodle is in the best interest of all of us as we are the beneficiaries of this wonderful breed.
What is Early Imprinting?
Below is an artical supplied by a professional trainer we use towards imprinting your puppy starting at an early age. We also implement the Bio Sensor program used by the military. Our puppy's are evaluated, on day 49, by a certified proffesional trainer using the Volhard testing.
Newborn puppies are undeveloped. They do not hear or see. Their senses of smell and touch are functioning. The puppies should be handled a little bit, like for weighing every day. Subject the puppies to small amount of stress, e.g. different under covers, cold temperatures. Also, they can be conditioned to certain smells at this age.
EEG (Electroencephalograph) tracings show that the puppies waking brain-wave pattern is identical to their sleeping brainwave pattern. This means that they do not have true consciousness – and they will remain so until the 20th day of their life. While their “conscious” brain cannot yet be programmed, this is not so with certain reflex pathways in their spinal cords (work researched since Pfaffenberger’s book). The first reflex which can be conditioned is the pannus (or cutaneous) muscle reflex. Conditioning of this reflex, so that it becomes abolished, or inactive, or non-responsive to human touch, begins it critical period at Day 14 and finishes at Day 28. We call this “The Critical Period of Touch Conditioning”.
Cutaneous muscle, under the skin, all over the body, will twitch (startle response) when skin is touched, throughout life, by human beings of whichever sex do not take part in touch conditioning. In adult dogs (over 4 months), we see this as a dog which will not stand still and be willingly touched (examined) by any men, or by any women, whichever it lacked in its conditioning in this period of 14-28 days. This is the dog (or bitch) which has to be shown “only under female judges” or “won’t let a man touch him/her”. No type of later “training” will reliably bring a touch-shy dog out of this too frequently seen behavior fault. So do not fail to program your puppies for both male and female touch! This is imperative for pets, show trials, guides, police, etc.
Take the puppies outside on a clean blanket for a couple of minutes each day.
Day 9-12: Eyes open during this period, but puppies cannot focus, nor is there any conscious awareness of anything “seen”.
Day 11-13: Ear canals begin to open for function, but are not “hooked up” for conscious interpretation of sounds. No sound conditioning is possible until day 23.
Day 14, 2 weeks old: Begin touch conditioning. This is done by having a man and a woman each handle each puppy for 2-3 minutes twice daily. Handle head, muzzle, neck, body, legs, and tail. Touch and rub back against hair gently. Remember to wash hands first!
Day 15-21: The puppy goes through a lot of physical changes. The baby teeth erupt at about 15 days. Do touch conditioning and expose the puppy to mild stress. Take the puppies outside every day.
Day 20: On this day all puppies brains are slowly (some faster than others) awakening. Begin observing continuously. Note which of each sex “wakes up” first. Mark these two, for example by cutting a small patch of hair on their backs, or marking with nail polish.
Day 21, 3 weeks old: CONSCIOUS LIFE BEGINS NOW. Touch conditioning. When you do your touch conditioning on this most exciting day, watch the faces! For the first time they react consciously to your presence. You have looked at the puppies many times, but today you are seeing them as never before.
The Second critical period, Days 22-49
Day 22-28: This is the single most important week in a puppy’s lifetime. The puppy is now aware of self-environment. The puppy learns he is a dog. He learns to accept discipline, he learns submission. He moves around on wobbly steps and shows curiosity and begins exploring the environment. NOTE: Any puppy intended for conditioning as a compulsive retriever must be weaned absolutely by the end of this week. This is very important for the future obedience dog.
Continue touch conditioning every day this week.
This is the puppy’s first week of conscious life as we know it: they should NOT be disturbed or traumatized in any way except for the two brief daily exercise periods of touch conditioning. Any traumatic experience during this week can have far-reaching, lifelong, unpleasant results. During this week, you should organize the gathering of “the puppy toys”. These include objects made of ALL of the following: rubber, vinyl, plastic (squeak toys), metal (band-aid rollers, 6″ lengths of conduit which later become utility obedience articles, ice cream tin lids bent in half, etc.), glass (small brown vitamin-pill bottles, etc. with lids removed), fabric (notably 2 long “footy” socks each having two knots tied, one at either end. These are later rolled into balls and become 2 of your most important tracking articles in your early tracking training. Leather – use 6 strips of fresh, new cowhide, 6″ long by 1″ wide. These also become vital later on in both tracking and obedience, as well as search and rescue, and red cross work. Rawhide – these are 100 % edible treated beef-hide items; the ones shaped like potato crisps and called “pup-chips” are the ones to provide at this time. These provide the ideal teething substance and are instinctively more satisfying to puppies than are any other articles. Do NOT include wooden articles at this stage.
Do not exclude anything from this collection, and replace anything that gets lost. This is being done for several very important reasons, which you will appreciate more and more as you begin serious training, and you find that while other dogs must learn to retrieve, to find by scent, to tolerate metal in their mouths, etc., you have a dog with a custom-built mind, who does these things automatically. Virtually anything can be incorporated into a puppy program once we know the critical period.
During this period the puppy should be guarded against trauma of any kind. Make this period a stable period in the puppy’s life. The puppy can be moved to different areas temporarily to be conditioned to different surfaces, but do not change the puppy’s permanent area, and do not change the schedule.
Day 28, 4 weeks old: Last day of touch conditioning.
Day 29-35: This is also a very important week. Begin sound conditioning. This is the abolition of the startle response, which will otherwise occur whenever loud or sudden noises are heard. I should not have to point out the vital importance of this. Remember that dogs do not inherit gun shyness.
4-6 loud bangs daily, when puppies are sleeping, eating, playing but NOT when puppies are looking at you or coming towards you.
This critical period for this is week 4-6. Do these loud noises every day from day 28 through day 42, then review by testing for sound startle once weekly. The program should include all types of sounds to which the pup will be subjected to while working in its adult job. Use guns, cap-pistols, saucepan lids; always expose them to the sound of a stockwhip being cracked. Use tape recordings of crowds, traffic, babies crying, trains, heavy machinery, etc. Ideally, the pups should be placed individually in a sound proof booth when they are subjected to the tape recordings. The dam should be out of the puppies’ range of vision and hearing while sound conditioning is being done. Do not omit any type of these sounds. This is one of the most important parts of the “programmed puppy”.
Introduce a stable male dog as “daddy” to teach the puppies a different perspective from the start. Introduce puppies to obstacle course, e.g. tunnel, tires, covered balance walk, etc.
Day 35, 5 weeks old: They have better control of their bodies, they can walk over obstacles, walk up and down stairs.
They should recognize familiar persons, and show curiosity about other people, other animals, and new surroundings. Continue sound conditioning. Begin reinforcing the “following response”.
Day 36-42: Reinforce the “following response” as follows. Take each pup separately to a large, open, grassy area. Handler places pup on grass and slowly walks away without speaking, or looking back. Go 10 feet, stop, face pup and wait quietly till the pup begins a distress cry “I’m lost”. Then, clap hands and move body back and forth till sees you and approaches. Hold the pups head in your hands for 3-4 secs. Then walk slowly away again. Repeat over and over until the puppy follows whenever you move off. Limit this to 5 minutes daily per pup – up to week 7 (day 49). Note: do not reinforce “following” in any areas in which persons other than yourself can be seen or heard by the puppies. The “following” response will occur towards you in a much reduced form if other humans or animals are present. The importance of this response will not become obvious until much later in the puppy’s behavioral development
Continue sound conditioning.
Introduce other people, children, wheelchairs, cats, and all else now.
Day 42, 6 weeks old: Puppies are 6 weeks old. Test for any residue of sound startle. Last day of sound conditioning. Reinforce “following”.
Day 42-49: Puppy proof the environment!
Begin daily car trips with the puppy NOW! Even very short trips will effectively condition the puppy’s sensory reactions to car travel.
Man – dog socialization must never begin later than this week. Also work on establishment of your authority as the “alpha”.
Begin “bag-work” – using a long, knotted sock.
Isolation conditioning begins NOW and is done daily through week 9.
Location conditioning begins now and continues till the end of last critical period. g. Practice on obstacle course.
Day 49, 7 weeks old:
Play with long sock.
First swim. If weather is ok, swim outside. If weather is bad, use the bath-tub. DO IT!
Day 50-56: The puppy has the learning ability of an adult dog from 7 weeks onwards.
Start conditioning the puppy to grooming, and to wearing a collar and leash. All week do the following:
Obedience (habitual) training, follow on your left side off leash, sit.
Location conditioning in different places.
Play retrieve and bag work. *
Practice obstacle course work.